April

The month of April brings the first signs of green to the countryside. Buds burst on trees, pastures and woodlands erupt with wild flowers, and gardens are full of golden daffodils. The light evenings are the first signs of summer, but there can also be some severe cold snaps that remind gardeners when bedding plants are destroyed.

Easter usually falls in April, and this is the first traditional feast of the year. Back in the Middle Ages it was the time when pilgrims set off for holy destinations, so beautifully documented by Chaucer, and the bards toured the great houses of Wales. Feasting at Easter, following the forty days of Lent, involved lavish hospitality; banquets groaned with venison and wild birds as heron and swan.

In modern times poultry has become very plentiful, but it's still seen as a festive meal at Easter. Chicken reared in true free range conditions, feeding on natural and organic produce, become quite supreme in quality, and well worthy of a great meal. The chicken is a very active forager and eager feeder. Exercise improves the texture of the flesh, making it firmer with lots of flavour. Intensely reared chickens have little exercise and a processed diet, yielding flesh with little texture and a bland flavour.

Chickens are graded by size, the most popular being a 3-4lb (1.4-1.8kg) bird that is economical to produce and feeds four people well. Larger birds that are 6-7lbs (2.75- 3kg) are older with more flavour. Small birds such as the poussin weigh just 1lb (450g), and the spring chicken or double poussin weigh around 1.5lbs (750g) making one and two portions respectively.

Chickens are also classified by status as free range or organic, or by feed as 'corn-fed'. In France the area can be important and certain breeds favoured. In Wales an increasing number of free range and organic producers are rearing chickens in the traditional way. They find eager markets in restaurants and quality butchers.

Langfields of Welshpool have a supplier of free-range chickens for their fine foodhall. Graig Farm Organics have a network of organic suppliers for their many retail and catering customers. Welsh Hook Organics have a similar situation in Pembrokeshire. Mountain Rose or 'Rhosmynydd' is a large free range farm in the Swansea Valley supplies many farmers markets, and distributes twice weekly to London. They produce chickens of all sizes, ducks, turkeys and geese. Every farmers market has a showing of free range and organic poultry suppliers.

Chicken is found in virtually every national cuisine from East toWest. It features in paella, tandoori, chop suey, coq au vin, waterzootje or simply roast chicken. The presentation is important in a festive meal so a traditional roast is particularly appropriate. It is classic 'cooking by sealing' the flavours of the roast enhanced by the use of seasoning, aromats and herbs. Chicken is very receptive to a wide range of flavours, so a plain roast can be made exceptional. Many chicken dishes are ragouts and casseroles that use exchange of flavours in a sauce. A quick fricassee of breast, or a long, slow cooked casserole can both be delicious.

Festive roast chicken with sage and citrus stuffing

Serves 4

1 free range chicken about 1.5 kilos
4 best quality pork or chicken sausages
50g shallots sliced
50g organic carrots - sliced
1 stick celery, sliced
juice and zest of half a lemon and half a lime
1 teaspoon green peppercorns, crushed
12 fresh sage leaves
4 rashers streaky bacon
100g fresh brown breadcrumbs
1 egg
Halen Mon sea salt
Freshly milled pepper
25ml vegetable oil

For the sauce

200ml fruity red wine
300 ml chicken stock (or vegetable juice)
100 ml tomato juice
1 teaspoon mustard
1 teaspoon pesto
50 ml dry sherry or wine

Dice 2 bacon rashers and fry in a little oil until just crisp. Add half the shallots, carrots and celery and cook until soft. Chop sage leaves and add half with peppercorns and half the zest. Add breadcrumbs and mix well, put into a bowl. Season, whisk egg and add, then moisten further with warm water and mix well to make a firm stuffing.

Make a pouch from the neck and breast between the skin and meat and push the stuffing well into this pouch and secure the neck skin with a cocktail stick or small skewer.

Put remaining vegetables, herbs, zest and seasoning into the cavity of the chicken with the four sausages, leaving the cavity open. Lightly oil the skin all over and put into a roasting tray and cook in oven for 30 minutes. Remove and baste well with pan juices, season with Halen Mon and pepper. Put rashers cut in half over the breast, return to oven and lower heat to mark 4 350F 180C and cook a further 30 minutes.

Carefully lift chicken from tray without skewering and place in a carving dish and return to the oven, turned to minimum (Mk ½ 200F 100C) and leave to set for 30 minutes.

Meanwhile pour off any fat and on a medium heat deglaze the pan with red wine and scrape all bits from pan. Reduce by half, then add stock and cook for 10 minutes to reduce by a third. Add tomato juice and citrus juice. Dilute mustard and pesto with wine in a jar with well-fitting lid. Add to sauce. Check seasoning and heat through well.

Carve the chicken to give eight good breast slices, two drumsticks and two thighs, and four chunks of stuffing, the bacon, and sausages from the cavity. Distribute onto four hot plates and serve with sauce.

Bread sauce, cranberry sauce, roast potatoes, and green vegetables make this into a festive dish.

Cheese of the month

Perl Wen
The white pearl

Perl Wen is a fresh, young, soft cheese with an edible, natural rind on the style of brie. It comes from Caws Cenarth at Boncarth in the Teifi valley. The farm has organic stauts and a herd of pedigree Friesans that provide all the milk for the cheese making. Owner Thelma Adams was a pioneer in farmhouse cheese making in West Wales and produced the first true farmhouse Caerphilly that has since won many awards.

Perl Wen is made in 1.5 - 2 kilo rounds, the shape of a small brie. It has a firmer texture but no chalkiness that's typical of young brie. The true taste of the milk comes through in the slightly astringent, creamy flavour. The cheese softens when allowed to mature for 1 - 2 weeks longer, stored in a cool larder. It then has the soft texture of a full, creamy brie, but a rounded full flavour. It's also made in mini size of about 300gms, ideal for a small family. It too benefits from a little ageing.

Perl Wen is a fine cheese to finish a meal, or makes a stylish 'ploughmans' or light snack. It's good with crusty bread, plain biscuits and celery.

Producer

Caws Cenarth,
Fferm Glyneithinog,
Pontseli, Boncath,
Carmarthenshire, SA37 0LH
Tel: 01239 710432

Pembertons Chocolates

Easter is synonymous with chocolate in its most ornate form in Easter eggs. Artistry with chocolate has been practised since Victorian times in every country with a culinary tradition. Chocolate, even though an everyday snack item is seen as a luxury that can be made in a multitude of forms.

Pemberton Jones Ltd from Llanboidy in West Wales makes Victorian chocolates in traditional ways without the use of any artificial additives. Their factory and shop has become a great tourist attraction. Their range of over 200 designs is based on myths, images and legends of Welsh culture, including a lovespoon and the Welsh feathers. They make Easter eggs in many sizes and designs that will make the most appropriate Welsh festive gift.

Welsh Food Focus - April